A jewel in London's crown of five-star hotels, The Stafford has some distinguished neighbours.  St James's Palace is a stone's throw away, Buckingham Palace is a pleasant stroll across Green Park, and Spencer House, built by ancestors of the late Diana, Princess of Wales, is just around the corner.

With such an exclusive address in St James's, I half expected we'd encounter that certain snobbishness which is sadly apparent at some top hotels.  But we didn't.  At The Stafford, which counts itself among the founding members of the delightful Small Luxury Hotels group, we were welcomed like long lost friends, despite the fact it was our first visit.

We'd chosen a good time to stay, as the hotel had just put up its Christmas lights and decorations. Thousands of bulbs lit the long row of trees which adorned the front of the hotel, with a similar number gracing the branches of those fixed to the balcony railings of the Carriage House rooms out in the courtyard.

We tangoed with a rather large, electronic dancing Santa in the lounge, our first taste of the many eccentricities which make The Stafford what it is - like the London home of a wealthy but slightly batty uncle who nevertheless values traditional Britishness and good taste, and believes in making his guests feel instantly at home.

Adherence to tradition is one of the reasons visitors return year on year, and the hotel spends millions maintaining the lavish timelessness its guests appreciate.  No face is forgotten, and the staff goes that extra mile to ensure each and every guest is made to feel special.  One couple has visited the hotel for forty years.  To help celebrate their 40th year at The Stafford, the hotel presented them with a bottle of wine.  Not just any bottle though, it was one from 1966.